Nalu: History, Legends, and Wisdom from 1,000 Years of Hawaiian Surfing

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A visually stunning and culturally rich exploration of surfing, the oldest sport in North America and an integral part of Hawaiian society that dates back more than 1,000 years.Modern surfing culture has existed for only about 100 years. Even the word surfing was a Western invention created in the 1800s by early visitors to Hawai?i, who had no idea how to describe the sight of Hawaiians riding waves. Little did those Westerners know that Hawaiians already had a name for it: he?e nalu, or wave-sliding.For ancient Hawaiians, this indigenous pastime was more than just a sport or recreation; it was a vital aspect of their society. He?e nalu had its own rituals, holidays, shrines, and mythology. When the waves were right, entire villages would abandon their duties to play in the ocean. Men, women, and children would all dive in—riding, competing, flirting, and socializing in the water. Kings and queens claimed the best waves for themselves. Handcrafted boards would be blessed by in a sacred ceremony.Containing a mix of gorgeous modern and archival surfing photography, surfing proverbs, ceremonies, and legends of ancient Hawai?i, and stories and advice from modern water-sport icons, Nalu provides a comprehensive look at surfing's mother culture and the people who have perfected it. Co-authored by Dr. Marie Alohalani Brown, a distinguished scholar of Hawaiian language and lifelong practitioner of Hawaiian water culture, and Ian Lendler, an award-winning author and dedicated surfer, Nalu draws from historical texts, many of which Alohalani has translated into English for the first time. A vibrant celebration of a time-honored tradition, Nalu is an essential read for those seeking a deeper understanding of surfing, and anyone who feels a connection to the ocean.